Clouds – Indulgences high up
Roughly 14 months have passed since its much anticipated opening and while the initial frenzy around Clouds might have faded, tables are still sought after and it is advisable to reserve well in advance ( at least 2 weeks if you want to score a table for dinner on a weekend).
Much has been written about Clouds and while the reviews weren’t always overwhelming, I’d like to give the restaurant some credit here – it is all too easy to belie expectations when they are a little excessive to start with. Ask Barack Obama.
The venue is dimly lit with a large panorama window front. The modern and conservatory interior is kept in discrete colors of beige. At the entrance and dining room, glass balls hanging from the ceiling represent the only decoration. Overall, the understated deco comes across slightly standardized and impersonal. We might as well be sitting in a lobby in Shanghai or Berlin. While this could be a deliberate attempt to not distract from the restaurant’s stunning views, a tad more originality certainly wouldn’t have hurt. The crowd is a grown up mix of everything.
The menu offers a good choice of vegetarian dishes however carnivores and fish lovers will also not be disappointed. We opt for porcini carpaccio with a cauliflower panna cotta and shaved cauliflower – all in all an interesting combination. The beef carpaccio with marrow and truffle foam is good (although the carpaccio could have been slightly more spicy) and the toast is missing. The foamed marrow is served directly at the table with an impressively synchronized gesture.
The beef is tender and served with a mouth-watering truffle potatoe frappe – an excellent combination of textures and flavours. The Zuri Geschnetzeltes is good although a trifle too salty. Other favourites included the pike perch with basil ravioli which lacked a bit of salt. All in all, the food is very good and nicely presented. All sauces are served directly at the table (not making the saucier’s job any easier). At the end there is no more room for desert however our coffee comes with a selection of confection which brings our dinner to a sweet and very happy end.
The service is friendly and attentive. After his co-chef left to join Mesa, the kitchen is now solely helmed by Spaniard David Martinez Salvany who comes by our table later to apologize for the lack of salt on the fish.
The combination of good food and a beautiful view makes this a place to go to for a romantic dinner, with family from abroad or simply for a fun night out with friends. While the interior might not be very inspiring, this type of restaurant arguably has been missing in Zurich.