Amalfi Coast – From Naples to Positano and Capri

Lisa St. Aubin de Teran once said “Travelling is like flirting with Life. It’s like saying: I would stay and love you but I have to go”  La Bonne Vivante found this to be particularly true at our recent trip to the Amalfil coast and has fallen head over heels with the beauty of the landscape, the food and the people. The more you travel the more difficult it becomes to be wowed by places. The Amalfi coast however oozes beauty and it is difficult not to be impressed by this Southern Italian paradise. La Bonne Vivante can’t wait to share our recommendations of what to do where!
Naples  – If you are travelling by plane you might be faced with the question on whether you want to spend a day in Naples as is tends to be a starting point for most. The answer to that question is…it depends. Some people refer to Naples as one of the most dangerous cities in Europe. The economic inequality is visible everywhere and manifests itself in the graffiti, deteriorating facades and the complete absence of high-end Italian fashion stores. In short, Naples exudes a very particular charme which seems a lot closer to Havanna than to sophisticated Rome or fashionable Milan. If you are interested in getting a glimpse behind the scene of beautiful coast line and see some of the real Italian south it is recommendable.

Naples offers a range of affordable hotels. Hotel Oriente is located in the center of Naples. The building doesn’t look like much from the outside however the interior has been renovated with a lot of attention to detail and the rooms are modern and spacious. Breakfast is served on the roof top terrace with boasts an amazing view of Naples.

What to do: Venture through the chaotic streets of Centro Storico (a Unesco world heritage) absorb the atmosphere and dine at the harbor in one of the many restaurants. From Naples rent a car and drive to the coast. On the way, stop by Pompej and visit the ruins of this city swept away by a volcanic eruption of nearby Vesuvio.

Positano – This lovely town at the Amalfi coast is among the most popular. You understand why the minute you get there. Lemon trees,  pastel colored houses built in the rock and a glorious view make this a unique place to travel. Excellent restaurants catering local dishes and the ubiquitous Limoncello paired with Turquoise ocean water will make you want to settle down here.

Where to stay: Villa Gabrisa is a charming, family owned hotel and offers individual rooms with nothing in common except for the glorious view. The hotel also offers a restaurant.

Glamorous Hotel Il Sirenuse is where celebs put up at. The charming hotel also hosts a michelin starred restaurant; La Sponda. In the high season It is close to impossible to score a table at the last minute and you’d need to reserve well in advance. Alternatively come here for a leisurely lunch and indulge in the fresh and light menu and fantastic view.

Another restaurant with an amazing view is the Capitano specialized in sea food. The menu is large, service is slow but the food is good.

ll Palazzo at the Murat Hotel is another Michelin star restaurant set in a cute little terrace. This is one of the few restaurants in Positano without a view however the food is amazing and the service is lovely.

Capri – From Positano take a ferry and visit  the beautiful island of Capri, which is über-charming  however overcrowded by day tourists. Take a boat and visit the many grottos inlcuding the famous grotta azurra unless you visit Capri in the season. In the high season the approximate waiting time is 4 hours and no, it is not worth it. Take the train up to Capri’s center or, for a fitness challenge, walk up. Up in the city center visit the Carthusia perfume store.  Legend has it he father of the Carthusian Monastery of Saint James picked a flower bouquet for the upcoming visit of Queen Giobanna.  When the flowers were thrown away he noticed that the water had acquired a fragrance unknown to him and Capri’s first perfume was born.


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